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Speed Settings for Different Dough Types

Master the Ankarsrum's variable speed dial. This guide covers exactly which speed to use for every type of dough, from delicate brioche to stiff bagel dough, and every stage of the mixing and kneading process.

10 min readIntermediate

One of the Ankarsrum Assistent Original's greatest advantages over other stand mixers is its infinitely variable speed dial. While a KitchenAid gives you 10 fixed speeds and a Bosch gives you 4 speeds plus pulse, the Ankarsrum lets you dial in any speed from a barely perceptible crawl to a fast rotation. This precision matters because different doughs and different stages of the mixing process call for very different speeds.

Understanding how to use the speed dial effectively will improve every bread you bake. Too fast and you overwork the dough, generate excess heat, or fling flour out of the bowl. Too slow and the kneading takes forever or the dough does not develop properly. This guide gives you specific speed recommendations for every common dough type and mixing stage.

The Ankarsrum's speed dial does not have numbered markings like other mixers. Instead, it has a smooth analog dial that you turn from off through a continuous range. We will describe speeds in relative terms — lowest, low, low-medium, medium, and so on — because the exact position depends on your specific model and the load in the bowl.

Speed Range Overview

The Ankarsrum's variable speed dial covers a wide range. Here is what each zone of the dial is best suited for and the types of dough that thrive at each speed.

1

Lowest (barely turning)

Best for: Autolyse & initial flour incorporation

The bowl barely rotates, gently combining flour and water without developing gluten. Use this when starting any dough to prevent flour from flying out of the bowl and to ensure even hydration before kneading begins.

Sourdough autolyse
Any dough initial mix
Adding dry ingredients to liquids
2

Low (slow steady rotation)

Best for: Gentle kneading & enriched doughs

A slow, steady rotation that develops gluten gently. The roller compresses and folds the dough at a pace that mimics hand-kneading. This is the primary speed for enriched doughs where butter and eggs have weakened the gluten structure.

Brioche
Challah
Cinnamon rolls
Milk bread
Sourdough after starter addition
3

Low-Medium

Best for: Standard bread kneading

The workhorse speed for most bread doughs. The bowl rotates fast enough to work the dough efficiently, but slowly enough that the roller stretches rather than tears the gluten. Most lean bread doughs knead beautifully at this speed.

White bread
Whole wheat bread
Rye bread
Pizza dough
Baguette dough
4

Medium

Best for: Stiff doughs & final gluten development

A faster rotation for stiffer doughs that need more mechanical energy, or for the final minutes of kneading when you want to finish gluten development. Useful for bagel dough and other low-hydration recipes.

Bagels
Pretzels
Stiff whole grain doughs
Final kneading stage
5

Medium-High to High

Best for: Whipping & non-dough tasks

Higher speeds are generally not used for bread dough. They are intended for whipping cream, beating eggs, or using the cookie whisks. Running bread dough at high speed risks overworking it and generating excessive heat.

Whipped cream (with whisk attachment)
Meringue
Cake batter
Cookie dough (with cookie whisks)

The Golden Rule of Ankarsrum Speed

When in doubt, go slower. The Ankarsrum's roller and scraper system is designed to work effectively at low speeds. Unlike hook-style mixers that need a minimum speed to engage the dough, the Ankarsrum's roller makes contact with the dough at any speed. Slower speeds produce gentler gluten development, less heat, and better bread. You can always increase speed if needed, but you cannot undo the damage of kneading too fast.

Professional bakers using the Ankarsrum typically use the lower third of the speed range for 90% of their bread baking. The upper speeds are primarily for non-dough tasks like whipping and beating.

Dough-Specific Speed Guides

Detailed speed recommendations for the most common dough types. Each guide includes hydration level, mixing time, kneading speed, kneading duration, and practical tips.

Lean White Bread

Hydration:60-68%
Initial Mix Time:2-3 min
Kneading Speed:
Low-Medium
Kneading Time:8-12 min

Start at lowest speed to combine flour and water. Once a shaggy mass forms, increase to low-medium. Knead until the dough passes the windowpane test. The dough should pull away from the bowl wall cleanly.

High-Hydration Artisan Bread

Hydration:75-85%
Initial Mix Time:3-4 min
Kneading Speed:
Low to Low-Medium
Kneading Time:6-10 min

High-hydration doughs are wet and sticky. Keep speeds low — the roller handles wet dough better than any hook because it presses rather than pulls. The dough will look rough for longer than dry doughs, but it will come together. Do not increase speed to hurry the process.

Sourdough

Hydration:70-80%
Initial Mix Time:2-3 min (autolyse first)
Kneading Speed:
Low
Kneading Time:6-10 min

Mix flour and water at lowest speed, then let autolyse for 30-60 minutes. Add starter and salt, then knead at low speed. Sourdough benefits from the gentlest possible kneading. Many bakers finish with stretch-and-fold sets rather than extended machine kneading.

Brioche & Enriched Dough

Hydration:55-65% (plus butter/eggs)
Initial Mix Time:3-4 min
Kneading Speed:
Low
Kneading Time:15-20 min

Mix flour, eggs, and liquid at lowest speed. Once a dough forms, add softened butter one tablespoon at a time at low speed. Wait for each addition to incorporate before adding the next. The roller excels at pressing butter into the dough. Keep the speed low throughout — enriched doughs need time, not force.

Whole Wheat & Multigrain

Hydration:68-75%
Initial Mix Time:3-4 min
Kneading Speed:
Low-Medium to Medium
Kneading Time:10-15 min

Whole grain flours absorb water more slowly, so an extended autolyse (30-60 min) at the lowest speed helps. These doughs are stiffer and benefit from a slightly higher kneading speed than white bread. The bran in whole wheat can cut gluten strands, so gentle kneading is still important.

Bagels & Pretzels

Hydration:50-58%
Initial Mix Time:3-4 min
Kneading Speed:
Medium
Kneading Time:10-12 min

Low-hydration doughs are stiff and require more mechanical energy. Start at low speed to combine, then increase to medium for kneading. The Ankarsrum handles stiff doughs better than most mixers because the roller compresses against the bowl wall rather than trying to wrap the dough around a hook.

Common Speed Mistakes to Avoid

These are the most frequent speed-related mistakes new Ankarsrum owners make. All of them are easy to fix once you know what to watch for.

Starting too fast when adding flour

Always start at the lowest possible speed when combining dry and wet ingredients. Flour will fly everywhere if the bowl is spinning too fast. Increase speed only after all flour is moistened.

Kneading enriched dough at medium speed

Enriched doughs with butter and eggs need low speed throughout. The higher speed generates heat that melts butter and overworks the delicate gluten. Stay in the low range even if it takes longer.

Using high speed to speed up kneading

Higher speed does not mean faster gluten development. It means more friction heat and a higher risk of overworking the dough. The Ankarsrum develops gluten effectively at low-medium speed. Trust the roller.

Not adjusting speed as the dough develops

The dough changes as gluten develops — it becomes smoother and more elastic. Some bakers start at low and increase slightly to low-medium once the dough has come together. This progressive approach gives the best results.

Running high-hydration dough too fast

Wet, sticky doughs can climb out of the bowl or splash at higher speeds. Keep speeds low and let the roller do the work. The Ankarsrum handles high-hydration dough exceptionally well at low speed.

Timer & Speed Combinations

The Ankarsrum's built-in timer pairs perfectly with its speed dial. Set the speed and time, walk away, and come back to perfectly kneaded dough. Here are proven timer and speed combinations for common scenarios.

Basic White Bread

Set to low-medium speed and 10 minutes on the timer. The mixer will stop automatically. Check the dough with the windowpane test. If it tears, add 2 more minutes. This combination works for 90% of white bread recipes.

Sourdough Mix

Set to low speed and 8 minutes. Sourdough benefits from less mechanical kneading. After the timer stops, remove the dough for bulk fermentation with manual stretch-and-fold sets every 30 minutes.

Brioche (After Butter)

Set to low speed and 15 minutes. Brioche needs extended kneading after all butter is incorporated. The low speed keeps the butter cool while the roller develops the gluten thoroughly. Check at 15 minutes and add time if needed.

Whole Wheat Bread

Set to low-medium speed and 12 minutes. Whole wheat takes longer to develop gluten because bran particles cut the gluten strands. The extra time compensates. An autolyse of 30 minutes before kneading helps significantly.

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